Sometimes we get our lashes done, look in the mirror and aren't as impressed as we expected to be. A lot of times, clients refer to them not being THICK enough.
When it comes to selecting a diameter for your natural lashes, we have to take into account your natural lash thickness, length and health.
There are multiple diameters to choose from depending on techniques and what's healthy to apply to your natural lashes. We use anywhere from 0.03-0.10mm for volume, where we are applying multiple lashes on one lash.
For classic lashes, one extension per natural lash, we use anywhere from 0.10-0.25mm.
An average thickness is 0.15mm and that's what most clients' natural lashes are able to support. When you have thicker natural lashes, you can handle around 0.18-0.20mm. A 0.25mm is usually way too thick for the majority of clients and even 0.20mm is pushing it.
A lot of times we see inexperienced lash artists using these thicker sizes on clients that can't support them. Unfortunately when it comes to training, a lot of companies and trainers are supplying these thicknesses in their kits and the students don't know any different. I was one of those artists when I began, so I know first hand that it's not always the artist's fault for using that thick of lashes. Education has since come a long way though.
When you have a lash that is too thick, long and heavy for the client's natural lashes, you risk causing breakage, premature shedding or worse, hair loss. If these lashes are continually applied, you're causing trauma to the hair follicle and you can cause permanent damage.
Many clients want the thickest lashes possible and some artists are willing to give that to them while taking their money and not taking into consideration their lash health.
It's important to understand as a client why some artists refuse to put on thick diameter lashes. I've had clients come in and tell me, "well I've been getting these and the ones you put on aren't thick enough" or "my friend has thicker lashes". Well that friend may have more lashes than you or naturally thicker, longer lashes and can support them, so results are going to vary with everyone because we all have different sets of lashes, amount, length and thickness. For clients that have had thicker, it could be you were going to an artist that trained with thicker lashes and doesn't understand how to choose for each client and just uses the same ones on everyone.
If you have sparse lashes, you can opt for a hybrid, volume or mega volume set which uses volume fans to create more volume than you may have naturally. Volume is the best choice for anyone wanting a full, dense look.